Hands of a Climber

Tough Enough?

2011-09-18T16:48:00.001+01:00

Well punk? are you? How are you going to prove it? Prove yourself? Show you earnt that square foot of land your standing on. Show you earnt those pints of oxygen being sucked through your lungs. Show us you deserve to see with those eyes. Show us what its all worth to you.

Why its worth it? Show us what your willing to risk, choose somthing that matters or its no risk at all. Lay it down because you know you can pick it up when you've finnished. Or even lay it down so it can come back to you. You must make yourself lighter, and what matters weighs us all down. Put down the apple of temptaion, step away from the sword of valour and drop the rose of passion.

Thud dum,

thud dum,

thud dum

Listen as your life gets pushed around your body, each beat bringing you one step closer till your so close you can only see the patterns within, follow the grain, spin and twist out in valleys thousands of millimters long. each grain leading up to a possability, a dimple, a edge or a crack become defined as your head crains up.

thud dum
thud dum
thud dum

Let yoursefl become blind, feel your life speed up, all your muscles tighten and twictch. Your hands dance gently, they feel the temperature cool your skin. An edge emerges to your fingers and you grasp it. the coarse crystals push into your skin. Each one holding on to you, willing you upwards.

thud dum, thud dum, thud dum

Quicker now, eyes open and you move upward. wich each hand movement you persective changes, your wight shifts, your legs push and another grip is available. You breath. You relaxe. The moves all seem like friends. They push you further up, a smile brushes accross your face.

Thud dum
Thud dum
Thud dum

Each twist brings you higher, each twist takes you back to a problem previosly encounterd, each twist makes you more secure. Your moving faster, more fluid. the edges get bigger, your arms get stronger. the top is in your hands, its over.

Thud dum

Thud dum

Thud dum

You sit down, feel the ground push you up, the wind blow into your lungs and the colors dance accross your eyes so vividly its like you've emerged from a cave. feel the warmth spread from your heart.enjoy the moment.

Are you tough enough? does it matter?

nose back to the gritstone

2011-08-18T22:01:00.002+01:00

Trip to Burbage South with the Bridgewood trio led to a good day out but limited climbing, a lot of energy seemed to be used running away from midgies though, gad damn i hate those flying devils! Still managed to send Attitude Inspector fairly quickly (3 goes) and Nosferatu second go after climbing back down (not best way to warm up). As it goes though I'm happy with that outcome as I haven't touched grit for at least 2 months, all work, no play make Eddy a dull dull boy...

Mow Town...

2011-06-12T20:20:00.003+01:00

A quick trip down Mow Cop the other week showed scope for some development, mostly in bouldering terms but a few routes (or high balls half way up a face...). I went up last night after some rain and it had stayed dry(ish) so I boulderd out a little problem near 'Dans buttress' (made up names as I don't know the real ones) Start bridging in a groove and get over a bulge using a sloper, some crimps and a interesting jug. There is also a rising traverse along a finger crack underneath the castle that I'm imaginatively going to call 'Howl's buttress' and there for call the traverse 'Sophies Traverse' (Ghibli geeks anyone?). Must return to finish off a few more problems, get pictures, videos etc...

Nout but a Feelin' Thang

2011-05-14T09:34:00.002+01:00

It may just be me, and it may just be blind enthusiasm, but I have a good feeling about the next 3 weeks. I don't have much time to climb but I vow to make the most of the time I have. My finger are starting to feel stronger, I'm starting to feel lighter so this can only mean good things. My new investment in some volumes is coming together and will be getting used fairly soon and finally i got another coaching course to go on the 19th of may. keep on trucking!

The 3 Stages

2011-05-11T11:56:00.004+01:00

It starts with denial, this cant be happening to me, I wouldn't put myself in this situation, I'm smarter than that...right... Moving on to acceptance. This is the situation. I have 2 choices, i can sit back and wait to see what happens or i can go, full bore and try to solve this problem. Finally the action. Well which one did you choose?

One More Time

2011-05-09T09:11:00.002+01:00

another blast on hot fun closing and the top is feeling more dialed, just the elusive boulder problem start to go. once that goes the route will and i hit the last hold but didnt stick it, all fun and games. one step closer to out my tree as well, hopefull it will be like a london bus...haha. the cornice is dry now as well so i can start one of my summer goals of devonshire arms, longer, pumpier and lots of undercuts, i cant wait. anyway off back to the tor for some bouldering.

but just so we remeber the great grippyness...

2011-05-07T19:03:00.002+01:00

Pojection

2011-05-07T09:36:00.002+01:00

The best use of your energy is always a sticky issue, especially as day to day life takes up 50% of your time, and you need at least 20% for sleep. so rationally speaking 30% of my time could be spent climbing but this isn't an ideal world...ha ha. Recently I have spent my climbing time on limestone, my target of 8a being a focus for me and one that I had previously thought of only as a pipe dream. I jumped on Hot Fun Closing at Rubicon a couple of weeks ago with Dom (who has now done the route, machine!) and again yesterday. Happily it is feeling attainable within the next couple of sessions which will be a nice step forward for me. The next target is Devonshire arms though, it looks superbly powerful!

Keep the commitment to 6am starts to climb, 4-10 shifts at work, sleeping out & lantern sessions and the world will soon be yours my son...or something like that, either way its a good way to live life.

were off to see the wizard...

2011-04-27T10:42:00.001+01:00

the wonderful wizard of rubicon, and do rubicon wall. also a stop off at raven tor for a pop at out my tree and alex to do weed killer. good times!

Still trying

2011-04-23T11:32:00.002+01:00

Keep cranking, keep climbing. you learn more when you fall off etc...I have been climbing a lot and I think it might start to pay off (though I am working alot now) fingers in every pie solo atempt, very nearly got through the crux, barriers went on a top rope and now its really warm, just for today will go when I use my newly invented finger flange and I'll be back to Nesscliffe soon to try Marleen and My Piano. Still in the midst of all this trying I moved onto some sport climbing and the dimond in the rough was 'Why Me'. Brilliant climb and it went on my fourth attempt. bonza. lets hope its a sign for the summer sprots season!

fingers in every...

2011-03-27T15:53:00.002+01:00

Pie. As Mr D Bridgewood danced his way ever so effortlessly up this mini classic any twang of jealousy i developed merged to enjoyment. Not only had he gone and done it, he made it look stylish (something very hard for Dom, if you knew him you would understand...haha). I pulled on to the bottom section and let the muscle memory take over till i was at the crux, feeling surprisingly good, nearly through now, just have to get my left foot up and out, I'm watching it go towards the hold then all the pressure going through two fingers on my left hand will go. Unfortunately the pressure got too much for those two fingers and 'pop' they went (not the tendon fortunatly) the tips going numb as the pain receptors go into overload and I'm off. Next time ay...

Ballers, brawlers and balls

2011-02-15T16:03:00.002Z

Half the battle is starting, the other half is believing that you can once you started. Commitment; strength of mind; perseverance; courage; single mindedness; passion and any other word or phrase you care to throw on to the heap. Knowing these phrases may be one thing, but do you really care what you are going to call it 20 foot off the deck and you've just slapped for the next hold only to find out its a grainy sloper, unpredictable, unreliable and unwanted. Every fiber of your body shouts at you, but you know the only way out is up. Then you breath, relax, chill out, take ten, collect your thoughts or anything of a similar nature, you do it because you have to. Look around, find your options, you not far now, don't just jump, be controlled. One hand on the top, two hands on the top, mantle, and its over. Short but powerful. Sit on the top and reflect, meditate, celebrate or just get back down the easiest way.

Thats it, easy when you only have to write it.

A big thank you to Chip Shop Brawl for helping me find my head again. For the full experince next time remove the pads.

Campfour

2011-01-24T21:25:00.002Z

I have Started blogging with Campfour, a local Macclesfield gear shop, quality people who not only sell it but do it so they know what there on about. check out the link in my side bar.

Lost and Found

2011-01-24T21:08:00.004Z

Wanted-Sense of control and calm on lead, confidence in own ability and an ability to control 'the fear'

Found-nervousness, unease and doubt

if you can help please call 0800-help-me-out...

from the sea to the center of the earth

2010-12-28T21:33:00.006Z

A few wee trips out have gone well, a trip to Thorn crag out near Lancaster after a hazey staff party in Liverpool was no less than idyllic, providing enough sunshine created light patterns to last the dark months ahead. They have been needed as recent times have called for the Jerry measure, Toms roof and Minus 10 taking there fair share of use, but also reaching saturation point. Rare for even these wet times! I have taken a few pick-tures and even some video footage, but as I am quickly learning, a full day filming things often provides no more than 2 seconds of usable film (if you were looking in the right direction and framed the shot right. More practice (and maybe a tri-pod needed) and way here are the pick of the litter.
Dom 'n' Col crossing the bridge

Dom about to send Fix my sink
Alex on Tom, he loved it.A journey to the center of the earth

baby steps

2010-12-01T16:24:00.002Z

Out again at last, free from the incarceration of a cast and back to rehabilitate and readjust to the climb life again. A trip to Curbar helped with this and gave me a mini adventure at the same time...

All god fun ay. A few boulder problems were done, including the infamous Strawberries which always seems to put up a fight. the main news though it that the ankle was feeling good if a little achy and there should be much more to come.

roshambo fool

2010-06-24T22:22:00.002+01:00

After a relaxing weekend in Devon at Goldcoast with Nick Stevens of Stoked Banana fame doing all the relaxing things you do by the sea. Drink, swim, sleep, surf and listen to some righteous tunes. I felt well rested and eager to get on it, unfortunately it wasn't so simple. With a little play on Fingers in Every Pie stopped (kinda) by rain, though we got far enough to know that the rusty peg is good (kinda). So on to Inas only to get shot down on Thumbelina, but get still further on Cornelius. Dan 'the man' Mills However sent in true style and crushed Thumbelina beneath his little finger of power. Well done Dan!

From the Soul

2010-06-10T15:32:00.002+01:00

Praying to the gods of climbing last night (a.k.a Simon Nadine) for good weather, or at least a dry day. Low and behold the sky held its damp for another day so Dom and me trekked out to Stoney Dale, like our own little Pex hill, just a little more green and a bit further away. it was all worth it though as we started to warm up on Robin hood and Cad Cam Warrior up to the main break before being detoured by the green upper section/no rope. On to the main even of Sole Survivor, and a rapid ground up ascent. The climbing was a combination of power and balance as it always is with aretes.

After that success we headed to Wrights with a mind to climb Fingers in every Pie. We were shot down. There's always next time.

Pictures

2010-06-08T14:24:00.019+01:00

The golf looking b-e-a-utiful
Dom on the thin moves on Crystal Voyager
Me getting blown off the top of summit Arete
my solo of Original Route at Baldstones
Danny working Bens roof
The very Thin Air(y) rocker next
Colin stepping across Valkyrie
Pex Hill
Remember your safety kids, never climb underneath another climber...
Neat solo at Pex
small hands and technical feet
The essence of Pex
MonoBloc
Mushin'...soon
Topping Black and Tan
Stepping across Valkyrie for the gearless top.
The one, The only, The sloth!

Hectic

2010-06-03T22:53:00.005+01:00

The past few weeks have screamed past in a blur, you have to move fast to make the most of the sun shine. The good news is all this movement has resulted in some satisfying climbs/days, the bad, well there isn't really a down side.

I've kipped out at Raven tor a few more times now and managed to bust out Weed Killer traverse and Bashers problem. Dom, Danny and Dave have all done the same but Danny boy has been excelling himself on the steep lime stone also ticking the direct start to Weed Killer, Undercut sloper jug, Undercut Crimp jug (or something like that) and Out of my Tree. He has also quickly sussed all the moves on Ben's roof and Power Band but still needs to link them.

A few trips out around Staffs with Dom on the trad has seen some success as well with both of us ticking Nature Trail, Crystal Voyager, Summit Arete, Acid Drop and The Thin Air. I've also sent Ina City Riot, Whispering Myth and at long last Smear Test. All of these routes felt quality, and not once was a top rope used.

Some good team evening full of banter have gone down as well with Colin, Gaz Alex and Jay all send Valkyrie for the first time. Colin lead the Sloth and followed by Gaz and Alex followed me up. Alex has also done a solid lead of Safety Net, his first E1.

A trip to Pex Hill with Dave and Dom was eye opening to the potential of a little quarry on he edge of a suburb. Brilliantly technical climbing on a just off vertical slab, its all there but can you use it. I'm not exactly sure what routes we have done there as i don't have a guide but they all felt like the correct balance between brown stains and satisfaction.

There may be a few things I've missed out but it has been busy time and i got a few photos to show.

Popp

2010-05-01T22:25:00.003+01:00

A quick skirmish up Ramshaw with Dom and we came away victorious but only just. A minor epic on the my first attempt as my the top wasn't nearly as positive as hoped leading to a fall/none fall thing. After that i slithered back down, chilled out and sent Body Popp with an udge and nudge. Dom lead the the thing in a very similar way after. Cracking value.

The first exploration of Welsh rock.

2010-04-29T13:51:00.013+01:00

Over the past week the weather has been absolutely brilliant, so good in fact I think that was our summer as it has started to rain again. As well as getting the miles in at the Roaches I have been playing on some new rock, a few trips to some Limestone and a trip to the Rhyolite and Slate in Wales were very entertaining.

A night time camp at Ravens Tor and some time to play on the Weedkiller traverse by fire light with Danny and Gav. Both Danny and me got to the last hold on the traverse only to find ourselves pumped up and out, next time ay! It did give me a chance to play with the long expose on my camera though, Interesting right.

Then with a free day Dom and me headed off to blast up Cenotaph Corner, and what a cracking route. Mr Brown was certainly on form when he climbed that. Hopefully he also had a dry day, or at least a day when the corner wasn't seeping. I found the middle section all damp which encouraged me to place lots of gear. the only draw back to this was by the time I got to the top I had run out of quick draws. Every nut I Placed from then on lost me that set as I was using the clip to attach the rope. This didn't cause too much drama as I had 4 sets of nuts and was about 15 foot from the top.

With a biting wind at our heals and cloths that were suitable for gritstone cragging we beat a hasty retreat and headed off to Vivian Quarry.

Here we started on Mental Lentils which was a cracking introduction to slate climbing, and it only got better from there, Psycotherapy, felt much the same just slight steeper and slightly smaller holds. The Dervish was thinner still with smears that will take some getting used to, it also gave me a chance to place some micro wires, I hope I don't have to check how bomb proof gear that small is.

After all this excitement we head to the local kebab shop with the recommendation from a few friendly locals. His food was worthy of the praise, a great chilli con cairn and lasagne. He also gave us complimentary garlic bread. He was a very strange chap with a passion for food and massive glasses.

Finally a picture of the corner, I'll be heading back soon for Left wall.

Rock on

2010-04-26T10:50:00.003+01:00

With the recent spell of great weather it's given me a great opportunity to get loads of climbs under my belt with a few different people, some of them more fresh to this than others. I've recently take Alex out climbing who has taken to it well, dead keen to learn about gear placement and belay set ups. As well as that I have been out with Dom a few more times and he's managed to get some great ticks including Appaloosa Sunset and Travelers in Time, both of them 3 star classics. Nice one Dom. I've also had a camp out at Raven Tor with Danny boy, who before I got there dropped the final jug on Tsunamish, valiant effort on a hard problem though. As for me, I've been trying to tick my way through a load of routes I've always just walked past like Slab and Arete, Safety Net and Roscoe's Wall to name a few of 'em. I also had a less than inspiring look at Barriers but decided it was just 'too warm' on the day. A bit more commitment and maybe a nice cold morning next time...as for now I'm getting ready to head back out to the Roaches aka second home.

The best of the month

2010-04-11T22:46:00.007+01:00

Getting rescued, but I have done this now but the pics of the real deal are a bit naff but if you want to see em let me know. Piece of mind.
Pete streching for a dish on Crystal Voyager.
Dom on the same move.
I do like the colors that happen when the sun meets the earth.
Starting off into the hard section of Piece of Mind.
This pic has repeated its self and i cant get ride of it so its here to stay, good job i like the pic.

A Piece of Mind

2010-04-04T12:25:00.005+01:00

After work on Saturday the 3rd of April I rushed out to the Roaches to enjoy the last of the sunshine and it seems that absence does not just make the heart grow stronger but the head and the hands as well. I arrived at the Roaches and did three pocket slab and stretch and mantel in the first 10 minuets so things seemed good. A quick phone call to Dom and he was on his way after falling off the lower Baldstone traverse. Before he arrived I finally nailed the Gutter under Valkyrie and repeated the Big Dyno. When Dom arrived I was ready and to go and nail Piece of Mind, specially with the promise of some gear at half height, unfortunately this did not work. It may be because I cant place gear or that the placement is too worn. What ever the reason the Route turned back into a solo, but finally a successful one! so this is really just me congratulating myself...Well done Eddy

pics to follow

A quick round up

2010-03-12T00:25:00.003Z

Scotland was a blast and now I'm very busy trying to get a car and secure a job so I've not got much time for this....here goes.

The Journey-long stint on the motorway, man got kicked in the head in Glasgow, we arrived at 1.30am, them bastards stole my place and Lucy killed a deer.

Day one-walk up to Tower Ridge turned into a walk to the CIC and a snoop about. Everything seemed fine.

Day two-Walk up to Tower Ridge again, did Tower Ridge in good time, walked down again. good times. Bump into Italian guides and get told crazy Eiger story.

Day three-Walk up to Comb Gully, did Comb gully in good time, sat on top of Ben Nevis for about two and a half hours. While on the top I saw 80 marines, a typhoon, 4 black birds a full circle rainbow and a little bird i have now named Daisy. I also took pictures of my friends on Tower Ridge, good times.

Day four-Bought whiskey, made plans, bought Daves CD, walked around alot of shops and made a domino run involving a tin of climb on, various books a mouse trap and a frying pan.

Day five-Early start, 4.30 to be exact, left by 5 (thanks Will) up to CIC hut by around 8 back down by 20 to 9. went to Ben Udli (sp) and climbed the Smirk where Tom didn't put on his water proof, got hot aches and as such i had to lead all the pitches, not really a bad day for me.

Day 6-we could have gone for a walk but considering all the walking we had done in better weather we decided to stay home, we played monopoly, drank the whiskey I bought, went to the Clachaig to listen to some live music, drank some ale til we found Whiskey ale (7%) then proceed to show every one what happens when a group of peak district plebs get drunk. I don't remember what happens after that...

Day seven-Wake up in pain, so did everyone else, we all sympathies/mock what each other did the night before, before dirving home very slowly.

That was my week in Scotland, it was great.

Thank you to (from the left) Tom, Si, Tom, Lucy, Dave and Will.

ben nevis fun

2010-03-08T20:52:00.007Z

My rope going up The Smirk
nobody told the marines that green camo doesn't work in the snow...
My mate Daisy who chilled out with me on top of the Ben for a few hours
Looking up Tower ridge on my solo outing
Tom and Si in the saddle
going over the notch on Tower ridge

Cairngorm

2010-03-08T15:51:00.005Z

Alex Thakore, late evening, finding the hard hard ice under the snow that made a snow hole a bad idea.
A rammed Corrie an T-Sneachda, its only right considering the weather.
The depths of the Vent, unusualy heavily iced in the back. What a pleasant supprise that was.

peak photos

2010-03-08T15:45:00.005Z

Dom on Bareback rider
Pete doing the same

High speed imp act at the churnet, more like 6c, just monkey between the jugs.

the first sunshine after the rain/snow

2010-02-12T15:59:00.006Z

And everyone decide to go to Stanage, or so it seemed. while warming up on Crescent arete the crowds started to pour in and matts got thrown at every problem round the area. never was there a better time to try Not To Be Taken Away and To Be or Not To Be.

After a swift ascent of Wall End Slab our own group had swollen from 2 to 6 with the arrival of some very committed friends from Oxford. While bouldering our attention kept getting drawn up the the stunning aretes above the bouldering which were by lnow receiving the attention they deserve with each one of the 3 being climbed at least 6 times by different people.

There was a carnival spirit in the air for sure.

As the evening started to approach our numbers dwindled to 5 as Dom left us to return for work that evening, the rest of us turned to the Hourglass boulder where we did The Hourglass, Born Slappy and Hourglass Ramp.

More recently and locally trips to The Roaches, Windgather and Churnet have been productive in both teaching gear placement and belay set up to a friend and a quick ascent or Bareback Rider and High Speed Imp Act.

left: Tom Holloway on To be or Not To Be
Above right: Dom Bridgwood on Crescent Arete
more pics to come

A deep water dream

2009-12-23T16:21:00.003Z

What a wonderful place Weymouth is, or can be. When the sun is shining the rock flashes brilliant shades of white at you while the sea glimmers blue, green and even yellow and red as the sun sets. You sit at the top of a cliff, feet dangling toward the sea, your body aches as you let the wind cool you down before you go get a pint and fish and chips by the harbor and laugh about the days antics with your friends.

Not now though, the rain lashes down and the family has its obligations over Christmas and my only salvation is a guide book built with love and passion transporting me back to that place. I flick through the pages and hope seems to flow from them to me. the sun will come out again soon and i will be ever ready, ever willing to climb out over that winter chilled sea to take the risk.

long live Weymouth and the memories it hangs in my mind.

wings and wheels

2009-12-14T18:31:00.004Z

The sun came out for 4 days to let me stretch my wings, and that's exactly what I did.

Starting on the Friday a play at the Roaches lower yielded Chalkstorm, though I think I agree with the BMC grade of E3 5C. Valkyrie provided some entertainment next, after leading up the first section my second first refused to lead the top pitch and then refused to second it which meant I had to set up an abseil at the top for the rescue which took longer than expected. leaving the crag in such a rush meant I left my boots at the base of Valkyrie where they did not stay...

Saturday was unfortunately a mute day due to work commitments, Sunday how ever was very fruitful with my first trip to the skyline area, even in my dads old boots. a quick ascent of Wild Thing, then a not so quick ascent of Triple Point (sometime I just like to stop for a moan). After a little sight seeing down at Art Nouveau, lovely looking route, we headed to the 'Hard very far Buttress' to have a look at 'Wings'. After eyeing up the start I went to see how hard to rock over move was only to find myself above it with no rope or harness, not exactly well thought out plan there. Still the best adventures are the ones you don't plan so I tread lightly up the slab and made the top with a heart in the mouth feeling. With this successes behind me I gave 'Track of the Cat' a go (after cleaning the start as it looked like some one had sneezed all over it) and with little fuss it went as well. Now I was on a real roll, so it started to rain and I rushed off to see if my boots were still at the bottom of Valkyrie, they weren't, and in the rush I left 3 nuts at the top of 'Track'.

So this morning a take a trip to my local gear shop, Camp four, to see if I could get some boots on loan till I get paid and finger there new copy of 'Climb' magazine (which I feature in this week), they do look after me there! So with my new boots in my bag I headed back to the Roaches with dreams of Peace of Mind, that is until I fell off my bike and made a hole in my knee...bluebells! but still I had made it that far and I needed to retrieve my nuts. At the Roaches I just couldn't resist 'commander energy' before leaving.

Here's a few pictures of some lads doing Wings after me,I'm off to fix my bike while it raining anyway.

Snakes and Ladders

2009-12-10T16:56:00.002Z

A HVS route which involves no actuarial rock climbing, 3 abseils and at least 7 separate ladders, now that's what I call an adventure!

It started blury eyed on a friday morning at 4am when I was picked up by Will Ceaser, thankfully he was driving so I caught some shut eye in the car and needless to say the journey went very quickly, for me at least. In Bangor we picked up Robb Ceaser and made our way to the Dinorwic Quarry and the start of the route in Dali's hole. The route description we had was a extract from a magazine,

although this route is not a conventional climbing experience, its equivalent to HVS and provides an unforgettable experience of the history and danger faced by past generations. the route contains: rusty ladders with missing rungs and dark dripping tunnels far underground. this is not in any guide, but here is a brief description: A tunnel leads from the east side of dalis hole and skirts around the deep echoes of hades to emerge in calafornia, an impressive arena enclosed by huge walls. climb the chain on the left wall as you leave the tunnel. this leads to another tunnel, which exits opposite dalis wall where a secret hole at the base of the crag provides the entrance to tasmainia. scramble up the lower part of australias vast oil drum glacier towards white looking paint on the scree, then head right to a set of ladders on the salt pans level. these gain access to g'day level, high up in quarries.up here, away from most of the post-quarry foraging, workmans coats and boot lay ready for tomorrows hard graft.a series of abseils and ladders down the heaven walls gain the base of the lost world, a truly forgotten and ethereal place. walk through into mordor and ascend ladders to the khyber pass. continue up the hillside until an incline on the right leads down to the main track through the quarries. doesnt count if you take headtorches!

The route in total took around 5 hours to compleate including lunch stops but i would advise longer, specialy for the curious among you. The quarry is erily beuatiful and full of possible adventures/climbs to play with.

What i would say is highly recomended for those with a bit less time is to take the Khyber pass and then jump off it part war round to Mordor and onto the Lost world, a truly surriel place!

pictures to follow soon!

Chasing stars

2009-09-22T19:52:00.003+01:00

A busy week climbing, with over 30 stars in total with one star shooting right past in the for of Ron Fawcett at Stanage Plantation. This is where my adventure starts and my first camp out sleeping under the Joker. Even though I was there for two days I foolishly spent my time working on problems I was obviously lacking the strength of skill to achieve, this is to change over Autumn though! Waking up to a clear morning but stiff muscles i decided to go route bagging before leaving to use the facilities at the outside cafe.

A trip to Hen cloud the next day, according to the BMC "this is no place for the weak or faint of heart" and I concur. I climbed Delstree, Encouragement, Hen Cloud Eliminate, Bachelors Left hand (though not clean) and then to wind down with Great Chimney clocking up a total of 15 stars in one day (according to UKC). A fine re-introduction to jamming and its certain finesses. Defiantly a crag i will be visiting again.

Feeling like i was getting into the groove I made a trip to Lawrencefeild where I had previously eyed up the line of Suspense which give great climbing with a good ledge just below the crux making it even harder to commit. A difference in guide books made the star collecting more controversial, the BMC definitive being stringent and the rockfax maybe being generous. Taking an average though a 10 star day again.

sunny days

2009-09-14T15:13:00.004+01:00

A beautiful weekend for climbing, if only the midges would bugger off! Trips around Burbage south, Stanage High Neb and Curber getting me back into the swing of gritstone climbing after a month out.

Burbage south will have to be revisited soon to conquer The Knock which did just that to my confidence but with the sun still shinning there is no time to despair. I dropped my ambitions a little and built back up to climbing the E's. High Neb was great to do giving a nod to the old school and deciding not to use cams made it a bit more interesting as well. It was a nice day out with the family, my sister a budding photographer (though she would never admit it) took some good snaps, (click on the pic below for good quality). Curber was next and a morning assault was decided as a busy afternoon was looming. I managed to on sight 4 classic routes through the grades, Bel Ami, Maupassaunt, L'Horla and rounding it all off by a little thrill on Kayak.

Now I'm stuck at home fixing my bike which has decided to stop working, grumble grumble.

2009-09-14T15:09:00.001+01:00

Back in the swing of things

2009-09-10T09:44:00.003+01:00

First full day back and the weather was great so a ride on the bike and some climbing was called for. Off to chee dale with John and John from campfour in search of a 3 star route to climb in the evening. Sirplum was chosen and off we went with the sun lying low in the sky and not a cloud in sight. Sirplum deffinatly deserves being called a classic, and some of the most fun ive had on limestone so far.

Back to the real world

2009-09-06T06:40:00.002+01:00

The adventure is over, nearly. I have survived my trip to the mountains though at a few points it wasnt a gaurentee as life in the hunters territory is not an ideal thing. despite this as a group we were very active and got a wide varity of routes and peaks done, topping out at the 5100 ish on peak Jerry Garcia. Venessa and Sally climbed well together possibly giving us a new route and I gained Crocodile mountainand and crows nest peak (may go by a diffrent name but nothing on our map. Now sat in a Internet Cafe in Almaty Kazakstan is a whole diffrent kind of adventure as I speek no Russian and they speek no English but with commitment we can comunicate.

Greatly looking forward to getting home now though, a few plans on the grit and limestone in the peak as well as getting ready for the scotish winter. I will put some pictures and do a more detailed write up when i get home.

The only way is up

Not long

2009-07-29T16:46:00.002+01:00

With the leaving date for my expedition looming I've been running round north England trying to gather the gear i will need to take. As it rained all the time I was driving i didnt miss out on any climbing time. On sat the 25th I was at the Roaches with Nick, Tom and Ross, we started by warming up on the boulders in the lower tier, playing on Three pocket slab and Strech and Mantle. The ultra-classic Valkyrie was done in traditional style by Ross and Nick. Tom very patiently bleayed me as i attemped Ascent of Man before moving on to the Sloth which i have waited to do for a long time. Nick and Ross the followed suit up the Sloth and Ascent of Man. All in all a very succesful day, that is untill we got back to the car where i had left the ignition on. After a breif panik we were helped out by a nice gentlman with a jump pack so were able to get home to start the BBQ.

Alpine starts

2009-07-21T12:26:00.002+01:00

I walked out of the Amagell hut at 4am dazed and confused, noticing the sky was clear and the snow was hard, a good start to a great day. The route up to the Weissmies was a clean ridge line with some snow work in front of it. With the clouds settling in the valleys we reached the top, my first 4000+ meter peak. As soon as we were up we were down again, heading to the Hossas hut and then down on the monster bikes (thanks Sally). With the weather looking like it was about to close in a rest day was planned, but wasn't followed. A mad dash up to the Michable hut, one of the best positioned huts that I encountered on my travels but with 1500 meters of height gain in 2000 meters it had felt like a days climbing to just do the walk in.

Lenzspitze to the Nadelhorn, Brilliant! The path was lit up with head torches in the morning darkness with half the groups splitting off to the Nadelhorn while the pairs headed to the Lenzspitze. A few brave lights could be seen at the bottom of the ice route, the quite of the mountain a myth right now. Moving up the ridge together we had to stop near the top for the first pitched climbing which gave us a welcome chance to take on some food and water. The climbing was a little chossy at first but becoming more solid till we made it to the snow ridge right at the top, looking down at the air below my heals then around to the mountains in the background I kept on moving, I could look at the view at the top. Another quick snack and sip of water we pressed onto the ridge which was extremely entertaining both on the rock and snow, a few more rock pitches and abseils as we dealt with the teeth on the ridge and we reached the Nadelhorn. We looked down around the mountain and we noticed we were the only ones there, the quite of the mountain was not a myth any more. As we approached the hut successfully and elated we were fed well and soon went to bed content with a grand day out!

The next day we made the decision to end our trip early as the snow came down to the 3000 meter mark and didn't look like letting up. We would be more useful back home sorting out the logistics of the Kyrgyzstan expedition.

The only way is up

Fun in the Alps

2009-07-13T09:06:00.003+01:00

I arrived in Arolla on the 5Th at 1am (technical the 6Th then) after getting a lift off one of the friendly guides who was surprisingly on the same flight as me, thanks Paul. I was set for my alpine course now then, on the first day covering basic glacier travel and crevasse rescue, all very important but mundane. With a little persuasion our guide Phil decided it was a good idea to lower us into a milan (waterfall into the glacier). Try as we might we couldn't see the bottom, I even used my new head torch.

The next day we started the slog up to the Marie rose hut with the toilets of doom, but very friendly keeper. however the next day we woke to crotch deep snow, in July! We tyred to complete our route but after an exhausting stint of braking trail I needed a rest and an executive decision to turn back was made. Our next excursion however was much more successful taking us first to the Dix hut (pronounced dis not dick) and on from there to the Pigne D`Arolla which gave us a great view of all the Arolla valley and all of those around. Well done Sam and Carry for doing it and Phill for helping us.

I am now sat in Saas Grund on a sunny Monday morning preparing to climb up the Amagell hut. From there who knows, we shall have to see how the weather co operates. There are photos that will follow.

The only way is up

Packing

2009-07-05T09:32:00.002+01:00

Packing my bag for the Alps and i genuinely don't think I've seen it so full. Ice axes, sleeping bag, clothes, tent and the best part of a rack. It may be time to start another bag...

A Rainy Day

2009-06-17T12:38:00.003+01:00

The weather up to now has been glorious, and should be again once these showers pass, they do give me a good chance to catch up though.

Whilst the surf is good and the sea is warm you don't question it, you just enjoy it. That is exactly what I have been doing. I would like to think of it as good training as I'm using muscles I don't normally just to get out to the waves. Good for your balance as just sitting on a board out back is not as easy as it looks. It has all been well worth it as a few nights ago we had some 1-2 foot clean waves, perfect for me. Though one incident of a head dive onto the front of the board has left me with a sore head.

Out climbing at Baggy point yesterday in the afternoon sun was a nice brake from the surfing. We climbed Ben and Marion on the Promontory Slab. They are fantastic little climbs to just enjoy and take in the setting. A little bit further along is Affluence of Incahol, a one move wonder, but a great one move. After a bit of faffing I was up and away, the ropes pulled through and Nick lead the route.

The only way is up

Speke and Screda

2009-06-11T23:14:00.000+01:00

A night camping at Speke Mill a bay or two down from Screda at Hartland Quay was, as far as i see, a very strong choice. The climbing at Speke Mill though now seems to need a little bit of gardening or a little less water from the water fall. A quick abseil next to the waterfall on the line of Streamline (E4 6a) quickly made me think i needed a bigger brush to get rid of the algae to even try it.

Screda provided some much more relaxed climbing though going up the pinnacles that protrude out to sea (known to me now as seagull castle). I arrived with Nick just as the tide allowed us to get to the bottom of the climbs Fohn, Sea Breeze, The Needle and The Needle Direct. These climbs, apart from having to arm ourselves against the threat of seagulls, were very relaxing and enjoyable climbs. As the tide started to chase us back in land we set ourselves to the start of the main slab and providing entertainment for the customers of the pub on Hartland Quay. Here we climbed Chein Lunatique and Sundare before escaping the approaching sea.

A selection of pictures can be found here

The only way is up.

Sunny Spain

2009-06-10T00:32:00.003+01:00

8 days spent in Spain, 6 in Abdet with a crag 10 minuets walk from the front door of our house. Well done Dave for finding such a great place! The heat however made it nearly impossible to do anything 3 hours either side of mid day. How ever this was not such a problem as some may think, we simply took to the local way of life and slept through the heat to give us great climbing conditions in the morning and evening. This also let us take part in the activities of the evening and with such a spread of experiences in the group there was plenty to do, my ballet has defiantly improved.

The climbing in Spain is, whats the best word to describe it, like fireworks night at your local pub. There is something for the whole family but you still get that feeling of danger if you stand too close to the display. We started climbing at the Rhinos butt area (a loose translation) in Sella with a missive spread of grades and some really quality routes. We climbed here until it got dark, almost too dark for some people. The next day we took advantage of the local crag and some more quality route. My personal favorite was an off-width overhanging crack climb that will get your blood pumping, some of it out of your body.

After a few days at Abdet, Guadalest and Sella we went to Echo Wall, suitably names as I soon found out. I climbed here with Ross on the Bands of the 80's wall Where we decided only to climb in the 7's, Ross cranking out a 7b+ and part way up letting out a 'power scream' which proceeded to shout back at us from all round the valley. I climbed Morrisy, a big move 7b (maybe a little soft because of my height advantage)

Unsurprisingly some time was spent on the beach, but this was not down time. I will have you know some very serious water activities took place. First we had to make sure we could still swim, then prepare for a fall into water from awkward angles by throwing our bodies off the top of some rocks in a rotation. Now we are ready to Deep Water Solo (DWS), something I will be doing much more of. The destination for this was Cala De Moriag, there is plenty to do round here but the route that caught my imagination was the Secrete Beach Traverse. It climbs into a small cave and pops out a little further down. Unfortunately the sea had an off day and threw enough swell up to make getting onto the thing quite an interesting experience only to find all of the holds we and slippy. We didn't get far.

That is mostly that, Now I'm putting up my feet for a few days, getting ready to spend far too much money on gear, flights and training courses. But if all that gets too much I guess I'll go to the beach, long live Devon!

All photos can be found here

The only way is up.

Portland games

2009-05-28T13:09:00.003+01:00

Waking up on Tuesday we couldn't have asked for better weather, well minus the wind but that's easy to avoid on Portland, just go to the other side of the 'island'. We started over at Neddyfields and worked our way to the cuttings enjoying the sun shine and climbing. Perihelion proved to be tricky and entertaining at the Cuttings as we a Disobedience Contest, 'Rusty the red neck takes one for the team' was a great fun as well. The day was topped off nicely with a few games, a lot of food and some beer, magical.

Wednesday was more disappointing, rain was forecast and rain came so we stayed in, played pick up sticks and planned to leave, but not before enjoying the the wonderful food my grandparents had given us. I think I left a stone heavier than when i came.

Here's looking forward to Spain!

The only way is up.

'Revision'

2009-05-21T00:17:00.003+01:00

With the idea to go get some food for the night two intrepid adventures set out to Waitrose only to find it closing, what were we to do? Simple, go in search of the 'Summerfield traverse'. Although it may now be called the 'Waitrose traverse' now due to the take over. It is very easy to find and rewarding when you do. A long sustained boulder problem on real rocks, what more can a man ask for (apart from beer, friendship and the love of a good woman). There are a few pictures on photo bucket but they really aren't that great.

The only way is up(or in this case along)

The sky is crying

2009-05-18T00:21:00.004+01:00

Nick, co-owner of Stoked Banana and talented punchbag, came to the Peak to get away from exam pressure. We attempted to climb at Froggatt today but ended hot, wet and sticky, motorbike gear isn't designed for walking to a crag. hearing that the weather was better over the other side of the Peak we headed back to get the guide for the Roaches. When we got home the rains started again and our enthusiasm dwindled so we listened to music, watched a film (One flew over the Cuckoos Nest) and played chess (badly but I still won). Here's hoping for better weather tomorrow so me and Nick can go out cragging.

The only way is up

Simpley Stoned

2009-05-14T20:59:00.006+01:00

With the possibility of rain looming I felt I had two options, stay at home and work on my gear list or go to Stoney Middleton and enjoy the limestone love. After reading Jerry Moffatt's Revelation I wanted to get a taste of the history of Stoney. It proved entertaining and stayed dry even on a damp British afternoon. The possibilities there seem endless, even if they are all polished to a glass like Finnish. Most of the time I spent creating problems of my own and hanging off my fingers, two 'official' problems i succeeded in were Tom's original and Lucia's undercut. Traversing seems to be the call of theses areas though to aid in building stamina so this finished my session.

The only way is up

Removing Skin

2009-05-12T21:18:00.005+01:00

A very windy start at Newstone, then i ran away. It had nothing to do with a failed attempt at S&M at all... One things for sure, i wont wear shorts next time i put that knee bar in.

a few miles down the road and out of the worst of the wind at The Roaches I played down at the lower teir in the shade of the trees with my father. We tryed to emulate Mr Dawes with the no handed slab problem, I'm sure I've done it before and the pocketed slab around the corner on the same boulder.

The rest of the pictures from the day can be found here

The only way is up